The Guardians of the Gem Trade

In South Africa, independent gem testing laboratories form the unsung core of the jewellery trade—but unlike their internationally funded counterparts, they operate without sponsorship, grants, or institutional support. Running a lab here requires more than just a passion for gemmology; it demands relentless research, resourcefulness, and resilience. As treatments and synthetic stones become more advanced, the pressure to keep pace—without the luxury of modern equipment or large teams—is immense.

Despite their critical role in the trade, many of these labs face overwhelming financial strain. The reality is stark: without sustainable support, they’re disappearing.

Some years ago, a survey in Durban revealed that 80% of the gemstones tested at our lab had been fraudulently sold. The need for local verification was undeniable. And yet, the Durban lab I established in 1989 was forced to close—due to a lack of industry support.

There’s a persistent belief that international labs are more credible. But time and again, South African gem labs have demonstrated equal accuracy—often at a fraction of the price. A client once brought in a large blue sapphire. After thorough analysis, we confirmed it was Sri Lankan in origin and untreated. The cost of our report? R350. (It took the client six months to settle the fee.) Later, the same stone went to auction in the U.S., where a GIA report—at a cost of R14,500—confirmed exactly the same findings.

In another case, a Cape Town dealer sold emeralds worth R300,000 to a client. An overseas lab later identified them as lab-grown. Those same stones eventually reached our lab, where we reached the same conclusion—at R450 per stone. A simple local test could have saved the dealer from massive financial loss and a bruised reputation.

The infiltration of lab-grown diamonds and coloured stones is accelerating. On March 11, 2025, we tested 271 stones—and 156 turned out to be lab-grown. Fraudulent sales are no longer the exception; they’re becoming the norm.

With a modest investment, jewellery businesses can protect themselves and uphold industry standards. But local labs are battling outdated equipment, limited resources, and rising costs. While overseas labs boast cutting-edge tech, many South African labs still rely on traditional techniques—and yet, their results are consistently reliable. If the industry continues to overlook independent labs, these essential institutions may vanish. The cost of inaction will be high: more fraud, less trust, and greater exposure to risk. Trade bodies and industry associations must step in—not just to keep labs running, but to preserve the integrity of the entire jewellery ecosystem. Supporting local gem labs isn’t a favour—it’s a smart investment. One that pays dividends in trust, credibility, and long-term sustainability.

Course Dates 2025: